San Marcos TX Heating & Air Conditioning Services

Performed heating maintenance on a 2-stage gas system. Checked all electrical, mechanical, safeties and performance of the system. I found that the drain line was clogged. I cleared and treated the drain line and confirmed it is now draining properly. I ran the system until it started second stage heating and verified the gas pressure was within range. The homeowner replaced the filter last week and it is still in clean condition. No other major issues were found, and the system is operational at this time.

HVAC Electrical Repairs: I was called out to investigate an air conditioning system that was shutting off intermittently. After diagnosing electrical contact issues, I adjusted and tightened the contact points to restore consistent operation, ensuring the system’s reliability during unpredictable autumn temperatures.

Autumn HVAC System Tune-Up: During an autumn HVAC tune-up, I carefully inspected the refrigerant line for leaks and cleaned the evaporator coil. I also straightened coil fins, cleared the condensate drains, and secured all electrical connections. This thorough approach guarantees efficient refrigerant circulation, optimal heat exchange, and smooth system operation for the cooler months ahead.

Installed Carrier 3-ton heat pump system. Installed Ecobee Pro thermostat. Installed two new return plenums and an Aprilaire media cabinet with air filter. Transitioned to existing supply trunk line. Replaced secondary drain pan. Rebuilt and insulated primary drain line. Installed SS2 and SS3 safety float switches. Replaced disconnect and whip at outdoor unit. Pressure tested and pulled a vacuum on the copper line set. Verified system charge was at manufacturers specifications.

Performed a diagnostic on the system. I found that the outdoor capacitor is below value and the compressor is not running. I presented my findings to the homeowner, and they chose to have the capacitor replaced at this time. I replaced the capacitor and cycled power at the thermostat. I confirmed the system is now operational with 7 degrees of subcooling and a 15-degree temperature split. While replacing the capacitor I also washed the outdoor unit, secured the compressor wiring to prevent any rub outs and sprayed the electrical panel with JS 685 to keep any insects out of the electrical. All this was completed at no additional cost to the homeowner.

Performed the AC tune-up. Cleared and treated the drain line. Washed off the outdoor coils. During the tune-up, I found multiple deficiencies with the system: the outdoor contactor is in poor shape, the condenser fan motor is leaking lubricant, the outdoor capacitor has failed, there is no P-trap on the air handler, there is no safety float switch, the indoor control board is malfunctioning, and the evaporator coil is extremely impacted with debris. Presented repair options and the customer chose to have the capacitor replaced today. I replaced the capacitor and function checked the system. The unit is operational at this time.

Replaced the cased coil in the attic. Rebuilt the drain line and cleared and flushed with hot water. Sealed all pressure points with mastic tape and air lock and installed new line filter dryer. Pressure tested system for extensive leak check and pulled deep vacuum. Weighed in factory charge and verified operation. Everything working at this time.

Upon arrival, the customer stated that the unit seems to be blowing air, however the outdoor unit is not coming on at all. Started diagnostic at the furnace to check airflow and the float switch. Found no major issues with the indoor system. Went outside to the condenser and checked the capacitor first and found it to have failed. With the customer’s approval, I replaced the capacitor. The unit was cycled and is cooling properly at this time.

Upon arrival we removed the refrigerant from the system. Patched a leak with silver solder and began a pressure test. After experiencing issues on the isolation test, we discovered a second leak in the same area. With both leaks repaired we pulled a vacuum, weighed in new refrigerant and verified operation. Everything is working at this time.

Performed a diagnostic on the system. I found that the primary drain line has a clog where the primary drain line connects to the evaporator coil. Water went into the safety switch which caused the outdoor unit to shut off. I cut the primary drain line and added a PVC union for access to clear the drain. I then cleared the drain line and tested it with two gallons of water. I followed that with Viper drain treatment and checked operation of the system. No other major issues were found, and the system is operational at this time.

Installed new Carrier 1.5-ton straight AC system. Installed new Ecobee Pro thermostat. Rebuilt and insulated condensate drain line. Added SS2 and SS3 safety float switches. Cleared drain line with CO2 and flushed drain with water to ensure proper operation. That was then followed by Viper drain treatment. Installed new filter dryer, pressure tested with dry nitrogen and pulled a vacuum on copper line set. Replace the condenser pad. Installed disconnect and electrical whip. Also ran the low voltage in Seal-Tite. Ran new thermostat wire. Replaced both the supply and return plenums and then sealed with a mastic airlock. Replaced the flex ducts to the I-boxes and installed new grilles. Replaced the 12x12 RFGs. Charged system to factory spec and performed a benchmark. The system is working properly at the time of departure.

Performed cooling maintenance on a straight cooling system. Checked all electrical, mechanical and performance of the system. Cleared and treated the drain line and washed the outdoor coil. I also sealed the furnace knockouts to prevent any attic air from being pulled into the home. I recommended the installation of a water safety switch on the secondary drain line to prevent any overflow into the secondary pan. No other major issues were found, and the system is operational at this time.

On arrival I found the heat pump system set to cool at the thermostat but found the system running in heat mode. I performed a diagnostic and found that there is a short in the orange wire for the reversing valve between the air handler and the outdoor condenser. I was able to use an extra wire to replace the damaged wire. After I replaced the wire, I reset power and ran the system. I confirmed I now have 24v at the reversing valve and the system is now cooling. While onsite, I performed cooling maintenance on the system. Cleared and treated the drain line and washed the outdoor coil. I also replaced the Perfect Fit filter for the customer.

Installed new Carrier 3.5-ton gas system. Installed new Ecobee Pro thermostat. Rebuilt and insulated condensate drain line. Added SS2 and SS3 safety float switch. Cleared drain line with CO2 and flushed drain with water to ensure proper operation. That was then followed by Viper drain treatment. Installed new filter dryer, pressure tested with dry nitrogen and pulled a vacuum on copper line set. Replaced the disconnect and electrical whip. Also ran the low voltage in Seal-Tite. Added protection to the condenser. Replaced both the supply and return plenums and sealed with a mastic airlock. Added a new supply duct to the master bedroom. Charged system to factory spec and performed a benchmark. The system is working properly at time of departure.

Performed AC cool check. Checked electrical, mechanical, safety, and performance of the system. The furnace and blower wheel are both clean. The capacitor for the blower motor is within value. The wiring is tight and in good condition. The drain line was cleared, and flow tested with three gallons of water. Clear water was observed draining from the line. The drain line was then treated. The condenser fan motor and contactor are both in good condition. The capacitor for the condenser unit is within value, and the refrigerant charge is within factory specifications. The condenser coil was cleaned. No major issues were found, and the system is running at the time of departure.

On arrival the homeowner stated that his downstairs outdoor unit was making a humming noise and not cooling. I performed a diagnostic on the system and found that the outdoor capacitor is reading 5 mfd on the Herm side when rated for 45 mfd. Due to this, the compressor did not have enough power to start, which is why it was making the humming noise. I presented the customer options for repair, and he chose to have the capacitor replaced at this time. I replaced the capacitor and cycled power. System is now operational. I also found the condenser fan motor has a rust spot, the blower motor capacitor is below value and there is no water safety switch installed on the secondary drain for both systems to prevent any water overflow into the secondary pan. I also found that the primary drain line for the upstairs system should be rebuilt.

Performed cooling maintenance on one heat pump system. Checked all electrical, mechanical and performance of the system. Cleared and treated the drain line and washed the outdoor coil. All UV light and air purifiers are working. No major issues were found, and the system is operational at this time.

Performed AC cool check. Checked electrical, mechanical, safety, and performance of the system. The drain line was cleared, and flow tested with three gallons of water. The drain line was then treated. The blower wheel is clean, and the wiring is tight and in good condition. The condenser fan motor is in good condition. The capacitor for the condenser unit is within value. The refrigerant charge is within factory specifications. I did find that the contactor on the condenser unit is burnt and pitted. The condenser coil was cleaned. No other major issues found.

Upon arrival, the customer stated the unit has not been working properly for a week. I went outside to check the cleanliness of the coil. I also checked the capacitors and contactor and found they should be replaced at this time. I then went upstairs to check the float switch and the drain. I also changed the air filter for the customer. I found the drain was clogged. After three attempts to clear the drain line I went outside and found that the condensation drain line was buried in mud and filled with roots. After digging up drain line and clearing out the roots, I was able to properly flush and clean drain line.

Performed a diagnostic on the second system and found that the system has no refrigerant in it. I added 4lb 6oz of refrigerant and then performed a leak search. I found that there is a leak at the reversing valve. I presented my findings to the homeowner as well as options for repair.